1--OUR
FIRST WEEK IN CHINA
It
was all like a dream to us. The minute we arrived in
China it was like we had been through some sort of time
warp. Owen met us at the Guilin airport and picked up
one of our very heavy bags. We shared the load of the
second bag together. We had tried to rent a cart, but
we didn't have small change for them and were not familiar
with Chinese currency yet. So there we went through
the airport to the car. We loaded the bags in the taxi
and got in. We had no idea where we were actually going
and how long it would take to get there. Owen told us
many things about what to expect when teaching and he
asked us some questions about our backgrounds. He was
very honest and offered us the realism of China: it
is very beautiful, but it can't all be good. So far
the only thing we have foundthat will take some getting
used to is the public washrooms. Our hotel and our apartment
have North American style toilets, so there really isn't
a problem.
About an hour or so after getting into the taxi, we
arrived at Yangshuo. Along the way we had seen merchants
along the roadside, but it was dark when we arrived,
so it wasn't easy to see the countryside. Our flights
had been all at night, first from San Francisco to Hong
Kong, the longest night we have ever spent, and then
after a day in Hong Kong, we flew to Guilin in the evening.
Needless to say, our internal clocks were doing a number
on us or else had stopped completely. Once in Yangshuo,
we went to the Buckland School for some quick introductions.
We met Jennifer and Tracey and then were taken to our
hotel room. It was on the fourth floor and there was
no elevator, so we recruited some help to get our bags
up to the room.
The room was very comfortable. Two western style beds,
TV, beautiful draperies and matching bedspreads, bathroom
with shower and western style toilet and sink. It was
clean and well looked after. Every day we were given
a new supply of soap and shampoo as well as a package
with toothbrush, toothpaste, etc. Just like western
hotels. Hot water is provided in thermoses and tea bags
laid on the tray.
Owen offered to buy us supper, but we were quite tired.
We opted for tea. We walked down to West Street, the
famous hangout for foreigners. It is a typical tourist
area in some ways, and yet very Chinese. There are all
kinds of shops selling food and souvenirs. There are
internet cafe's and restaurants and pubs. Western food
is readily available in this area, but it is cooked
in the Chinese style -- kind of cute. We went to Minnie
Mao's (say it out loud!) and the tea was ordered as
well as french fries. We drank our tea and were introduced
to Trevor. He was a young man in his 20's who had travelled
to the area on his way to Viet Nam. The day before he
was to leave, he was introduced to Owen and was convinced
to teach. He was on his third month and was loving every
minute. His Chinese was quite good.
The following day we handed our passports to Tracey
with extra pictures so that our work visas could be
obtained. Then Tracey walked us over to West Street
and bought us breakfast. While we were sitting in the
Red Capitalist Restaurant, she motioned for someone
to join us. It was Marcel. He was to be our guide for
the day for the price of 100 Yuan, which is about 20
Cdn and apparently half the price that some other guides
charge. We rented bikes for 20 Yuan each and went on
our sightseeing tour. It was quite hot and we didn't
have any sunscreen, needless to say we got a little
burnt. But it was well worth it. Marcel took us to see
the local mountains which Dick had always wanted to
see. He always thought that the pictures were just paintings,
nothing could be this beautiful. But they do exist and
are every bit as breathtaking as the photos. The route
was sometimes pavement and mostly a rough sort of gravel,
and we rode through the little villages of tiny farm
houses that seemed nothing more than a concrete shack.
There aren't really any doors, the openings are like
garage door openings. Friends and families sit on tiny
stools(like children's furniture) on their concrete
floors and visit and share their food. Marcel was very
familiar with the locals and knew where to buy water.
It is bottled and usually cold and costs 2 Yuan per
bottle. During the morning Dick and Marcel had some
great discussions and they became pretty good friends
right off the bat. We had lunch at one of the little
farm houses: noodles with green beans cut into tiny
pieces (we found out that these were soy beans) and
peanuts. Then Marcel asked us if we wanted some chilies
and of course Dick was game. The lady brought us a bowl
of ginger slices and chilies and we added these to our
noodles -- outstanding! The best noodles we ever ate.
While the conditions at this little farm house were
not at all what we expect in our restaurants, the food
was good and Chinese people are clean about their food
and dishes. In the afternoon we stopped at the Dragon
river and went on abamboo raft ride. They use long bamboo
poles to push the raft through the water. Our pilot
was an older man who smiled a lot and didn't mind having
his picture taken. A few times he would gesture that
we should take a picture of a certain mountain and a
couple of times he volunteered to take our picture.
Then he told us he wouldturn around and take us to the
Banyan tree. This is a very wellknown tree that is apparently
over 1,000 years old. It is huge and obviously very
beautiful. Quite the Kodak moment trip!!
It's interesting to note that even though we hadn't
ridden bikes for a number of years, because we come
from the higher altitude of Calgary, we found that we
were able to ride a great distance without our lungs
giving us problems. Eventually the heat and activity
did catch up with me, and we had to stop a few times.
Marcel took us to his house where he lives with his
mother and his sister and her family. His mother cooked
us the most fabulous meal. At breakfast we had discussed
the bittermelon that Dick had tasted many years ago,
and so the meal was Duck with Bittermelon, Beerfish
(a local specialty) and a vegetable that we think resembles
Okra. There was so much food and it was so good, we
felt very bad that we couldn't eat very much. Being
in the hot sun all day and quite tired at this point.
We tried the local beer, and even though I don't drink
beer at home, I quite enjoyed the taste of this rice
beer. Marcel brought out his mother to meet us. She
was a tiny, bent over lady who had a great big toothless
smile. Dick thanked her for the wonderful food, even
though she didn't understand a word of what he said,
and he pinned a Canadian flag pin on her collar. We
apologized for not being able to eat all the food (it
was cooked just for us, so we were expected to eat it
all) and then decided to head back to town. Marcel said
it was only 20 minutes, but I think it was a little
longer. We had to stop a couple of times for me, but
we did make it to town. However, at this point I had
reached my limit and we walked our bikes back to West
Street and then Marcel recruited a motorcycle taxi to
take us back to the hotel. We had the best time and
made a great new friend in Marcel.
We went back to the hotel room and slept soundly. The
sun rises at 5 in China and that's when you can start
hearing the people gathering on the street to start
selling their wares. The traffic also picksup by then,
and you can definitely hear that. Chinese traffic is
not at all like in the west, but what is so amazing
is that it works for them. They honk when they are going
to pass, and they always pass, and everyone just blends
in. If you don't get out of the way, they do slow down,
but only at the last minute. I have to say, though,
that we didn't really witness any accidents or close
calls and there wasn't any squealing of tires.
The following morning we went for breakfast at West
Street and then decided to take the bus to Guilin. We
had been told how much the fare would be, so we were
prepared. We caught the bus and sat on the tiny seats.
There are two or three people manning the buses, and
I'm not sure if they are privately owned. There is a
driver of course and a man or woman who opens the door
and collects the money -- it's all cash only.. People
get on along the roadside, there don't appear to be
assigned stops. Farmers (men and women) get on with
their baskets of vegetables or chickens,workmen with
their tools. It's all very quaint. The people are very
friendly and helpful, even if they don't know the English
language. Some of the older people don't say anything,
but we could 'not tell if that was negative reaction
or just not knowing how to communicate.
Guilin is a big city by our standards and it was quite
metropolitan. We were approached by 2 men at the bus
station (obviously trying to sell us something), but
we told them we were going shopping. We needed to get
an adapter for our camera's battery charger and they
told us that the department stores would be the best
place to get that. They gave us directions on where
to catch the #1 bus and told us to go 4 stops. The bus
was a double decker and we rode in the upper part which
was open. Four stops later we got off and looked around
at all the tall buildings. We tried to guess which one
might be the department store, since the writing was
mostly in Chinese except for words like Kodak and Sony.
We walked a short distance, and then stopped to get
our bearings. That's when young lady approached us and
asked in very good English if we needed some help. She
had been in Canada and was planning on going to University
in Vancouver in the fall -- just waiting for her work
visa. She took us to the department store and we told
her what we wanted. She came with us to the electronics
department on the sixth floor, but no one seem to know
what we were after. We looked around for a while, and
then spotted a battery charger. We pointed at it and
explained that the plug on ours was a 2 prong and the
hotel suite had 3 prong outlets. There was a lot of
sign language and translating by our young friend. Eventually,
one of the sales ladies held up a power bar and showed
that the two prong plug go in there. After a few moments
we realized that what we really needed was the power
bar. So we asked where those might be and they directed
us to that section. We found one that suited our needs
and purchased it. Our young escort showed us the way
to the third floor because she thought we needed men's
wear (something Dick said that was misinterpreted).
We thanked her for her help and proceeded our shopping
excursion. We went back to the fifth floor because we
had noticed a food court. There were all kinds of video
machines in long rows in the center of the area and
a number of noisy riding toys for the kids. It was loud,
but people were having fun. There was a sort of bakery
off to one side that looked interesting. We went to
the counter to make our selection, and two of the staff
assisted us. They placed our tarts on the plates and
escorted us to our seats and served our drinks. You
never get service like that in Canadian food courts.
On the way down we stopped at the third floor because
Dick really wanted some socks. A nice clerk helped us
by pointing out that they are arranged by size. We made
our selection and bought two pairs. That was enough
exitement for one day, so we decided to go back. When
we got outside, we decided that we would like to walk
back to the bus station. It was longer than 4 blocks,
but quite a nice walk. On every corner there are little
kiosks that sell juice, water and snacks. Along the
way we encountered a blind man playing a 2 stringed
Chinese instrument that sounds somewhat like a whiney
violin. It looks like it's made from a soupcan and a
large reed, but the sound is quite melancholy and very
beautiful. We stayed for a few minutes to listen and
watch, gave him a little money and went on our way.
We managed to find the bus back to Yangshuo quite easliy,
paid our fare and got on. Women on the bus were quite
chatty, and even though we didn't know what was being
said, enjoyed the conversation and the ride.
Back in town we went to the hotel, plugged in the battery
charger and then decided to walk to West Street for
supper. All in all a good day. We were proud of our
accomplishment. We went for supper on West Street and
took a walk to look at all the shops and carts. Of course
you're always being approached to buy things or to take
a ride in the little taxi's, but that's the charm of
the area. Bargaining is an art I haven't quite developed
yet, but I did deal on a couple of things. As we were
walking on our way home we heard a girl call "Dick,
Dick". It was Tracey. She said Owen wanted to see
us. So we went back to Minnie Mao's and there Owen told
us that we were leaving to go to our new school the
day after tomorrow. We were to be at the office at 11:00
and the train was leaving Guilin at 2:00. We still didn't
know the name of the town we were going to, but we put
our trust in these people. They haven't let us down
yet.
The next morning we were to meet Marcel for another
guided trip. This time a boat ride on the Li River.
We went to West Street for breakfast and after thatwe
would meet Marcel at nine. We got to West Street about
eight and there was Marcel. He told us not to have breakfast
at the restaurant, he would take us to have real Chinese
breakfast. So we went to a tent behind a bicycle rental
that seemed to serve the guides and other locals. Marcel
watched the woman cook the noodles for us to make sure
it was done right. They were spicy and ,as usual, there
was way too much, but they were delicious.
Then we took a very bumpy bus ride. About ten to fifteen
kiometers of the road was under construction. It's very
interesting that all the work is done manually. Very
few times do you see heavy machinery. Even the materials
are delivered by small trucks and tractors. The road
was being relined with rocks and sand. Once packed down,
we assume it would be paved. They also don't do one
area at a time, rather they employ numerous crews to
work on several areas at a time. Needless to say, the
road was a mess and the busdriver had quite a challenge
negotiating all the obstacles. Not too good on the kidneys
either. We got to a town that I don't know the name
of, but it was quite charming. Marcel took us to a little
teahouse run by a friend of his. There he made arrangements
for the boattrip. We got a deal of course because he
liked us. We were served tea and after we drank it and
the rain subsided, we took a walk through the little
town. Through some of the open doors I could see sewing
machines and in others old men sitting or eating. Vendors
on the street were selling goodies and Marcel asked
if we wanted to try some. The first was a pastry made
from rice flour and had a peanut filling. It was steamed
orboiled, I can't remember which. It was actually quite
tasty. Marcel told us the name was PanPan. Then we came
to a lady making the Chinese version of a cinnamon knot.
I don't remember the name of it, but it had cinnamon
so of course Dick was a happy camper.
After sauntering around for a while we walked over to
the dock. We had to wait for the boat. We're not sure
what the delay was, but we waited quite a while. We
walked up some stairs to a kind of pagoda. It gave us
an excellent view of the river and the mountains around
it. After several pictures, including one of a giant
spider, we went back down to the dock. The lady apologized
for the delay but we really didn't mind. We enjoyed
watching her little boy. He was quite precocious, six
years old, and always after his "ma". Finally
someone gave him these little firebombs. They make a
loud noise if you throw them down hard, but I was told
they 're not dangerous. He had a blast with them, literally.
He also repeated a lot of our English phrases and his
mother helped him respond to some questions. Cute kid!!
Finally the boat arrived and we could board. There were
three other women on board as well, two of them were
a Dutch mother and daughter. The other one we aren't
sure about - she was kind of quiet.. I think we got
more out of the tour than these ladies did because of
Marcel. He had given us the pamphlet about the mountains
along the river. These have been named based on their
shapes or the color of the rockface. It was interesting
to see the Nine Supernaturals Crossing the River, etc.
The captain of the boat also kept coming over to show
us which mountain we were at. It is amazing how much
these people want to communicate and how easy it is
even with very limited language. I was able to sit at
the front of the boat (Marcel spread out a newspaper
for me to sit on) and the Dutch daughter sat beside
me. We took quite a lot of pictures.
The scenery along the Li River is absolutely awesome,
but I think what I like best about China is the people.
They are so warm and accepting of us. They are always
willing to help and we have never been ripped off as
far as money is concerned. Little children will call
out "Hello" and when we respond they laugh
or smile or are in a state of disbelief. It's quite
humorous.
The following morning we went for breakfast and then
back to the hotel room to pack. Tracey was going to
help us with our bags, but I don't think she realized
how heavy they were. We had dragged the purple one to
the lobby of the school and she and the young man who
worked at the hotel carried the other one downstairs.
Somehow we managed to get everything into the trunk
of the taxi and we said goodby to Tracey.
It took about an hour to get to the train station in
Guilin. We waited in the taxi for Owen. Everyone has
cellphones in China, so the taxidriver was able to let
Owen know that we had
arrived. We got the luggage into the train station and
then we went to the waiting room. We were given some
tea and then Owen took Dick outside for lunch while
I stayed with the bags. Once they returned, Dick and
I went so that I could eat.
We had bought some pastries in the morning from a bakery
in Yangshuo. We offered Owen some cake and at first
he refused. But then Dick told him that it was our first
wedding anniversary andthen Owen had some. He got up
to go to the counter and bought us some souvenirs from
Guilin as well as some postcards. What a sweetheart!
When it was time to board the train we said our goodbyes
to Owen and we hugged him. A couple of porters were
helping us get our bags on the train and we paid them
20 Yuan. We had hard beds, which means you get a mattress
but it's fairly thin. It wasn't all that uncomfortable.
There are six beds in a berth and I had the middle and
Dick the top. There were already some people accross
from us. They looked strangely at our luggage, but I
don't think anyone in China travels for an entire year.
Not only that, but we brought quite a number of books
with us.
The train ride was interesting. At first we decidedto
do some writing in our journals and people looked at
our pages to see what we were doing. The Chinese are
curious and not shy about wanting to know something.
At the same time were taking the occasional picture.
One of the gentlemen in our section was quite interested
in the camera in that you could look at the picture
right away. This soon gathered a few more people including
one young lady who spoke some English. People would
noticed the Maple Leaf crest on our bags and would often
point and say "Canada!" and smile. Very soon
in these conversation you would be asked if you heard
of Mao and Dr. Bethune. Dr. Bethune is still a very
great hero to the Chinese People.
We had been having this little gathering when one of
the members of the train crew suddenly leaned over to
look at the screen on the camera. He took the camera
and went to a small room at the end of the car and very
excitedly showed the other crew members the camera.
We took a picture of one of the female staff and then
the camera was taken to the other end of the car so
the rest of the crew could see the screen and the picture.
Between the camera, theMaple Leaf, and our appearance,
attention and conversations have been very easy, even
though not neccessarily completely understood. Supper
on the train was noodles and pork ribs from the Newsy
(Dick remembers this term from his train travels as
a youth ). Soon after everyone had eaten another young
ladycame along to ask a few questions and very quickly
became the second translator. Again the questions, laughter
and more conversation. A most enjoyable time. Suddenly
the lights went out! Power failure? No. It was ten o'clock
and time for bed. Our introduction to a typical Chinese
mattress.
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